You know you own a Land Rover when...

"razorbeamteam" (razorbeamteam) 10/30/2018 at 20:47 • Filed to: Range Rover

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The shop calls you and tells you they have no idea why the car is not running right, and they’re ready to give it back to you at no charge .

Die-Trying > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 21:02

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did they try turning it off, and then back on again?.......

BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 21:05

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Must not be the dealer. They charge me $80 just to look at it. I dropped $2500 for a bunch of stuff including new control arms...I couldn’t convince them to give me a tire plug or computer flash to turn off the auto-fold mirrors for free 

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > Die-Trying 10/30/2018 at 21:05

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That’s the first thing my IT guy always suggests. Somehow it always bothers me.

Die-Trying > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 10/30/2018 at 21:12

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yeah, it bugs me too. especially after i go into explicit detail about what something is doing, and all the stuff i have already done to it.

and you are trying to tell the guy, “but i am uploading pictures of my DOG....... you just dont understand ” 

for Michigan > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 10/30/2018 at 21:16

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Ninety percent of the time it works every time.

Mini Guy- Now has a 4Runner > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 21:42

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That sounds like a Mini problem. Oh wait, the mini dealer would find the problem and “find”two others and charge you obscene amounts of money only for your car to leave with yet another problem. I found this out when my car started driving wonky only to find that they didn’ t put a spark plug in. This was on the side of I-85 too. I live in Athens. The dealer is in Atlanta. I broke my keyboard typing this

functionoverfashion > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 22:05

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Tonight I had to fix my car so I could drive it to the shop on Thursday for something else unrelated and probably expensive (a mysterious front end clunk).

razorbeamteam > BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind 10/30/2018 at 22:18

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No, an Indy shop that specializes in older cars. The truck has been there 6 weeks already so I think they wanna cut their  losses.

SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 22:43

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For such simple things...they can be hard. If it has a distributor with a seperate control module then I’d wager that the problem lies in this area. Sometimes it can just be a poor connection between the distributor and the module...mine was a partially busted wire to the module under the rotor  button of the dizzy.

jminer > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 23:07

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Reminds me of a friend at work who dropped of a mid 00's BMW bike he dropped off at a dealer for service and it spent 3 months there and they could never make it run right. They delivered it back to his house on a trailer.

Funny part was he sold a  35 year old Goldwing that never failed to run for a ‘reliable’ newer bike :)

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > razorbeamteam 10/30/2018 at 23:13

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What year? What engine? What exactly is it doing? What has been checked it done to fix it so far?

It’s been a few years, but give me a few minutes and I can wire wheel the rust off the Rangie bits of my brain 

ihm96 > Die-Trying 10/31/2018 at 04:41

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The best with cars is when you go to do that and it just doesn’t start again and you think oh fuck oh fuck and then look down and realize you’re used to manual and just never put the shifter back into park lol

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > razorbeamteam 10/31/2018 at 09:39

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What are the symptoms? It’s a RRC, how hard can it be to diagnose? 

punkgoose17 > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 10/31/2018 at 10:19

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My work computer has some sort of video driver problem where the connected monitors stop working. I have to turn the monitors off and on again, so the computer recognizes them. It has been this way for almost 3 years now.

razorbeamteam > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 10/31/2018 at 10:59

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1992 RRC with a 3.9. I brought it to the shop after replacing all ingnition components including a brand new distributor. All parts are OEM. The symptoms it was having including stumbling, rough idle, and poor acceleration especially if you punched the throttle hard.

Since it’s been there they replaced the vacuum advance tube with a smaller diameter tube, which solved the acceleration issue but not the stumbling. They have verified that fuel pressure, compression, and the MAF is all in spec as well as both temp sensors.

The kicker here is that they claim they can get the truck to run flawlessly if the alternator belt is removed. They have tested the alternator and claim it’s fine after initially suspecting the windings were done wrong after it was rebuilt 2 years ago.

They say there’s no issue with the distributor wiring or any of the EFI components.

razorbeamteam > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 10/31/2018 at 11:00

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Just responded to AMGtech above, feel free to weigh in. Basically it stumbles and misses unless the alternator belt is removed. 

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > razorbeamteam 10/31/2018 at 11:19

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I’d get some confirmation on if the alternator is okay or not, you didn’t hear any belt slippage correct? 

razorbeamteam > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 10/31/2018 at 11:25

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No, and the belt is new. The tach is steady but when I put my multimeter on the battery I got some erratic voltage. When I tested it from the alternator it was steady. 

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > razorbeamteam 10/31/2018 at 11:43

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Sounds like you could have a bad ground, check the ground wires and replace them if they look corroded. 

razorbeamteam > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 10/31/2018 at 12:28

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The ground from the battery to the frame is new, could it be the positive cables from the alternator to the starter to the battery? Those are original. 

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > razorbeamteam 10/31/2018 at 12:31

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Entirely possible, this seems like an electric fault so start from the alternator and work your way to the battery. 

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > razorbeamteam 10/31/2018 at 15:46

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First I think you should chase bloody’s idea. Voltage drop test the positive battery cable. One voltmeter lead on alternator positive, the other on battery positive, with the engine running. If your reading is more than .5v, you’ve got a problem, and ideally it would be closer to 0 v.

If that's ok...

Did they try removing any other belts, one at a time, to see if that made the issue go away? It might be an issue of a normal load being too much for the engine with it not being at 100% somewhere else. If it’s only the alternator belt, did they load test the battery? Maybe it’s weak so the alternator is working overtime to keep power supply where it needs to be.

There should be a little, black, rectangular resistor in the wiring harness on the Left rear corner of the engine. It’s about one square centimeter with a male spade connector coming out of each end. If that goes bad it causes all sorts of weird drivability issues. It should measure approximately 5-8kohms.

Beyond that, I’d slap a 14cux engine control module in just for shits and grins.

razorbeamteam > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 11/03/2018 at 10:04

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Sorry only just now responding here. Oppo comments won’t load at work for some reason.

The mechanic from the shop texted me on Wednesday saying he thinks he figured it out but wants to do some more test driving to confirm. I haven’t heard from him since though. The last thing he said he was gonna try was swapping out the power cable that runs from the alternator to the starter because the original one is getting pretty crusty.

The battery is brand new after getting Optima to honor their warranty, so I’m thinking there’s gotta be a fault in the voltage regulator from the alternator that’s causing erratic voltage.

I’m intrigued by this mysterious black resistor you speak of. What does it do? 

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > razorbeamteam 11/03/2018 at 15:38

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From memory, it's a fuel trim resistor. And directly affects fuel injector operation. It's not listed in any diagrams I've come across. But we discovered it in a truck just like yours that had random and strange drivability issues. Checked a few more, and they all had it. But the problem truck had something like 13k ohms and was visibly corroded.